The willows are cut during the dormant period, that is from November to the end of February (the old rules dictate, to do this as the moon is waning). The absence of leaves on the branches is a clue, that the time is right. If someone doesn't have their own trees, this is before cutting branches from the encountered willows, should ask the owner for permission. Most of them will be satisfied, that the trees will be pruned, and wicker will find use. You can also do some research in this area in the offices that administer water reservoirs and roads, in nature conservation associations and forestry, as well as farmers growing willow. Thanks to this, we will know the officially designated periods, where wild trees and shrubs can be pruned. The dormant period of the plant is appropriate. Wicker shoots are cut with a large sickle-shaped knife or pruner, larger branches can be cut with pruning shears or sawed off. Be careful about it, so that the cut is as smooth as possible, as rainwater could then penetrate into any gaps and cause it to rot. After cutting, shoots must be sorted. You will need a barrel for this – wicker is put in it with butt ends (base) Down, and then pulls out at the apex ends, starting with the longest shoots. We are continuing this activity until now, until all shoots are sorted, folded in bundles and tied.
Drying and storage of wicker:
Wicker should be stored in a dry, well-ventilated room (attic, barn, garage etc.), where it will not be exposed to the sun, nor with moisture. Small amounts can also be stored in a cool compartment. It is best to lean them against the wall. In this way, the wicker will retain its full durability, if it's too humid, it is the rods that can rot. Before we start processing the wicker that you cut yourself, we should wait a year, at least the summer period, until sorted, loosely tied and stored upright will dry out. Wicker intended for the implementation of living structures should be placed in a dry place, protected against frost, light and wind, for example. in the garage or in the barn. Pests: When cutting your own wicker, pay attention to its quality, and also on storage options. Although, from the point of view of environmental protection, the settlement of willows – and especially willows
headed – by plants and animals it is a desired phenomenon, however, this may have a negative impact on the quality of wicker. When cutting, you have to be careful with fungi and pests, because e.g.. holes bitten by the critic of the Alder tree cause, that the wicker rod can break easily later. Other beetles lay eggs, and the larvae that hatch from them continue to live in the tree and cause damage similar to this, what knockers do. Therefore, willow furniture, as well as wicker and products made of it should not be stored in barns attacked by a knocker (Anobium dotted).
Purchase of wicker: Wicker can be purchased in the form of annual rods and sticks.
Besides, we have a choice between green (unprimed), boiled and white wicker. Rods are usually tied in bundles after 5 and 10 Kg, varying in length:
• for small baskets – 60, 80, 100 Cm,
• for medium-sized items and works,- 120, 140, 160, 180 Cm,
• for large facilities and structures – 2 m and more.
If the bars are not sheared, it is the second year that the rod is made a stick, recipient – depending on the conditions prevailing in a given year – diameter from 2 into 6 Cm. Sticks are used in the construction of fences, borders, racks and scaffolding, from which large objects and furniture are later created. Thicker sticks are unfortunately rarely available for sale, therefore, if necessary, cut them yourself. Preparation and softening of the material: In winter and spring, braids can be made immediately after cutting, made of fresh wicker, which will slowly dry up. At first, it keeps its wonderful, fresh colors in shades of brown-yellow, by light green, reddish to dark brown.