Keeping apple and pear trees in an almost natural form

Keeping apple and pear trees in an almost natural form

Forming an almost natural crown is based on correcting the natural growth of the tree due to poor cutting and bending of the shoots. Forming an almost natural crown, we try to derive the guide, around which there are 10-15 branches. Branches should depart from the conductor almost horizontally, creating with it wide bifurcation angles. Form the lowest branches at a distance of approx 0,5 m from the ground, and the highest 2,5 m from the ground. At this height, the conductor is cut out or turned into a side limb. The almost natural crown has a circular cross-section, arrangement of whorl boughs and can be classified as crowns with an abbreviated guide.

Apple trees and pear trees planted in the orchard in autumn or spring must be pruned in March or April. The first cut is the beginning of crown formation and at the same time is intended to facilitate the acceptance of the trees.

In commercial orchards, annual trees known as oculators are usually planted. They can be different in appearance. From completely unbranched to very profusely branched with a dozen side shoots. The drawing shows the different types of trees found in the orchard after its establishment. They can be divided into 2 groups.

Unbranched trees or trees with few side shoots, which are not suitable for limbs (characteristic. a-d). These trees should be cut in height 60-80 cm from the ground. Pear trees and apple trees forming slender crowns (Close, Starking, Starkrimson) we trim in height 60 Cm. Branch-shaped apple trees (Jonathan, Bankroft, Idared) we trim in height 80 Cm. Side shoots unsuitable for limbs, because they grow too close to the ground, or for forks forming sharp angles, we remove at the guide.

Branched trees (characteristic. e-f) you have to prune from below, removing the side shoots at least up to the height 40 Cm. If the shoot is around 10, then you can thin them a bit by leaving them in two whorls. The guide should be shortened at a distance of approx 50 cm from the uppermost side shoot.

In order to facilitate the adoption of trees, we have so far recommended shortening the side shoots in the first year after planting the trees. The shortening of shoots unfortunately delays the trees entering the fruiting period by the whole year. If the side shoots are not shortened, the first fruits appear as early as the second year after the orchard has been planted. It turns out, that side shoots can be left whole provided, that trees will be watered in times of drought. If this is not possible, especially when the orchard is planted in dry sandy soil, then side shoots need to be shortened by 1 / 3–2 3, that is, up to 20-30 cm. Shoot shortening should also be performed in the case of late spring planting, which exposes the trees to drying out.

Biennial trees are planted in orchards less frequently than annuals. Most often they are trees grafted on the main or with a stunted insert, which must necessarily pass through 2 years in the nursery. These trees also have a variety of crowns. They can be divided into 3 groups.

Branched trees obtained by trimming a one-year-old maiden in a nursery (Fig.a). They have strong upper shoots and form sharp bifurcation angles, while the lower shoots are weaker and have wide bifurcation angles. The upper branches are not suitable for limbs and must be removed. The lower ones - in the number of 3-5, should be left and shortened by 1/3 (weaker) into 2/3 (stronger) that is, up to approx 40 Cm. The guide must be shortened to 50 Cm, measured from the highest side shoot.

Branched trees with sharp bifurcation angles (characteristic. b, c). This group includes most of the pear trees and apple varieties such as Close, Starking and others. They require cutting and bending the shoots. The 3-5 lower shoots should be carefully bent to a horizontal position and tied in this position with a string. Upper shoots, usually very stiff and unbendable, have to be removed. Stems bent and the guide should then be shortened to approx 50 Cm.

The trees are forked, branched and without any branches (characteristic. d). If there are at least two side shoots, they are flexible, they should be bent to a horizontal position, tie and trim in a similar way as before. If, on the other hand, the shoots are too stiff, remove them, and cut the guide short, that is, on 30 Cm. We treat unbranched trees like annuals, that is, cut to a height of 60-80 cm. If these trees were grafted under the crown, prune them on 30 cm above the vaccination site.

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