After spring pruning, new shoots begin to grow. In May and June, special attention should be paid to the growth of shoots, which appeared on the guide. Shoot emerging from the topmost bud (mesh) it should grow vertically to extend the conductor.
In the future, the shoots of the lower eyelets will give branches and they should grow horizontally. They need help in this. From nature 2 the 3 the upper shoots grow vertically forming an acute bifurcation angle with the guide. We have to point them sideways. For this purpose, it is best to use wooden or plastic buckles intended for attaching dried linen to ropes. Fasten the pegs on the guide just above the growing shoots, which we force in this way to grow horizontally. The buckles must be fastened in May or early June, when the shoots are flexible, not lignified. The placed clips fulfill their role within two weeks by changing the position of the shoots. After two weeks, it is worth checking the trees by replacing the clips on these shoots, which need to be folded back. In July, you need to collect the clips so that they do not get damaged in the orchard.
In the second year after planting the trees, we avoid pruning, so as not to delay fruiting. This does not mean, however, that you can leave trees unattended. In the spring, we inspect the crowns of all trees. If clasps are on, it is the shoots in the crown that create wide bifurcation angles and do not require any treatment. If there were no buckles, many of them grow almost vertically and form sharp guided bifurcation angles. These shoots must be bent to an almost horizontal position and tied with strings to the trunk. The guide should not be higher than 50-60 cm, measured from the last shoot. If it is higher, it should be shortened accordingly. Some of them have side shoots growing on the trunk below the crown. These shoots must be removed.
It happens so, that the grower does not have time to bend and tie the shoots, which require this treatment. In this case, shoots with sharp angles should be cut. It takes little time to cut young trees, but unfortunately gives worse results than bending the shoots.
In May or June, the clips must be placed on the guide again in order to fold back the new shoots, that appear on it. The shaping operations in the third year after planting the orchard are similar to those in the second year. First of all, we pay attention that the side shoots create a wide angle with the guide. If necessary, we put on clips or bend shoots and tie them with string.
Within three years, it is usually possible to form the basic structure of the crown, consisting of a guide and 10-15 branches. If the shoots are bent and tied, the forming operations take approx 5 minutes per tree or 30-50 hours per 1 ha orchard. Using the clasps can save half the time.
The third year after the orchard was established is the beginning of fruiting of trees. For the next 3-4 years, trees do not require much pruning. For the proper development of trees, however, it is necessary to check their condition annually and, if necessary, to correct the shape of the crowns and their density..
During this period, we can find shoots growing under the crown or at the base of the boughs, going towards the center of the crown and crossing with shoots growing properly outside the crown. Stems growing into the center of the crown must be cut smoothly. We also cut out sick shoots, broken or dead. Cutting at this time only consumes 2-3 minutes per tree.
The above-described method of forming an almost natural crown does not take into account all the peculiarities of tree growth that can be found in an orchard. If the orchard consists of several varieties, we can find large differences in the shape of the crowns among both apple and pear trees. For your convenience, you can divide the trees into three groups in this respect.
Slender crown-forming trees, loose, having few branches and shoots. Close apple trees belong to this group, Starking, Starkrimson and most of the pear trees.
The crown-forming trees are branchy and loose. Mclntosh apple trees are here, Spartan, Lobo and many more.
The crown-forming trees are branchy with lots of branches and shoots. These include the Bankroft apple trees, Jonathan, Idared. The second group is the easiest to form and does not require special attention. The trees from the first group, as it were, run upwards , and you have to correct their shape for several years. Stems bent on a young tree with staples initially grow horizontally, but already in the second year they go vertically upwards. Sometimes it is necessary to bend several-year-old branches and fasten them with strings to the trunk, or to insert struts between the guide and the branches..
Trees of the third group, naturally dense and extensive, they do not require such treatments. However, they need to be x-rayed a few years after planting, cutting out excess shoots from the center of the crown.